Victorian contemporary hairstyles American horror story inspired

Victorian contemporary hairstyles/ American horror story inspired



List of products used

Thin curling tongs
Parting brush
hair brush
hair spray
hair band
hair clips


Step by Step

Curl the hair with a big curling tongs

brush it out

part the hair to one side

tease underneath the fringe

spray it and brush it over flipping it out to one side

Step by step

Put the hair in half and half ponytail
split the ponytail into 4 parts curl it and clip it around the ponytail evenly
curl the rest of the parting and pin it next to the ponytail until all of the hair is curled
for the front of the hair curl and pin it away

Ageing

List of products used 

Supra Colour Palette 

Kryolan Foundation palette 

Illamasqua skin base foundation 

Illamasqua transfluente powder

Step by step

1. Prep the face with moisturiser and primer

2. Apply a pale foundation 

3. with a cream product fill in the wrinkles and frown lines

4. apply a darker colour underneath the eyes to create a old/sick look

5. powder the face

6. fill in the eyebrows with a white colour 

Creating dark eyes and dark lip

Creating dark eyes and dark lip

After a consultation with the mode i found out that that she has dry skin therefore after cleansing and toning I used a rich moisturiser on her followed with a primer. I then started off with the eyes because since it was going to be darker there would be a lot of fall out. I primed the eyes powdering underneath it and started off with the lightest shade which was a gold then worked my way up to the crease with a dark brown. After mascara I filled in her eyebrows and then moved on to the rest of the face adding a foundation that was a few shades darker than her face to match her skin as she had fake tanned.  I contoured and finishes off with a deep dark red lip.

list of products used

M.A.C Prep and Prime

M.A.C Paint pot

Lush Moisturiser

Urban Decay Primer Potion

Loreal stick shadow in gold 

Urban Decay Naked Palette

Loreal Million Lash Mascarra

HD Brows

Russian Red Lipstick M.A.C

Illamasqua Contour and Highlight Palette

M.A.C pro long wear  concealer

Illamasqua translucent powder

Brushes

M.A.C 130

Zoeva eye definer brush

Zoeva Face Sculpt brush

Kryolan eyeshadow brush

Real Technique Lip Brush

Real Technique Powder Brush

Real Technique Stippling brush

Mascarra wand

Creating light scaring and using molds

Creating light scaring and using molds 

Wounds using gelatine & moulds
Flesh coloured gelatine

Step by step


1. To prepare the mould to put gelatine in use release spray- petrolise 2. Spray by open window because it's smelly or use Vaseline instead 3. Heat gelatine up and put in mould 4. Prosaide - what u stick on prosthetics with but have to take it of with right remover 5. Gelatine is melted away with witch hazel 6. Stick them on and colour in wit supra colour palette and scars "Useful for creating the same shape again and again use mould" "Has to be blended and look real"
7. Powder everything 8. Put it on use a cotton bud and when it goes clear stick on the gelatine press down then get rid of edges 9. Use witch hazel and rub it backwards and forwards and blend it and bleed it into the skin



Overall i am pleased with the outcome as it looks like a real cut. I found the application part the easiest. I also like the choice of red and the amount of wound filler I used as I didn't want it to be too intense. The top part of the wound looks better than the bottom as it looks blended in with the skin and real however the bottom part is not blended in well which makes it look fake. To improve next time I will spend more time on the blending to make sure it blends in more and also i would drag the colour down more to make the blood look splattered.

Creating Estelle Image

Creating Estelle image

I was very pleased with the informal assessment for Estelle mainly because I managed time really well, completing the hair in 1 hour and the make up in 45 minutes. In the practise I spotted a few mistakes which I listed down and tried to fix for the assessment which I think improved the whole look. 

The application of the make up for Estelle was much better than Miss Havishams and this was because I got to know my partners skin better which was dry therefore I chose a very rich moisturiser and a primer to suit her skin. This made the foundation sit on her skin very well with no dry parts. It also made the skin look very dewy and youthful rather than powdery and matte which would be better for older skin. I wanted strong highlighting to show the beauty which Pip fell in love with as highlighter is very beautiful and it brings out the cheekbones and also makes the skin look very dreamy and glowy. The ideal Victorian minimal make up was what I was aiming for therefore I kept it to the minimal. However having said that, I did apply lipstick and blusher which did not show on camera because I took a lighter hand with it. Knowing that the camera fades the make up I should have applied more of it as the pink blusher would have made her look even more youthful and it would make her look like she is blushing as she was when she admitted her love for Pip. I also think a coat of dark brown mascara would have made the look much better as it would make her eyes look more awake. 

I am happy with how the hair turned out as I wanted it to be very similar to Miss Havishams, as Estella is very loyal to her and follows everything she does. I wanted to create the same sort of look with the layout but more crisper with no fly away hairs. To improve the hair i would use each strand of hair equal to each other for example an inch or half an inch of hair to curl and pin which I started doing but forgot. I believe that this would make the look more neat and perfect for film. Also on the right side of the he'd the hair is a little messy which could be fixed by adding a little more mouse or 

gel.

Miss Havisham assessment and steps to maintain continuity

         Miss Havisham assessment and steps to maintain continuity 

HAIR

For the hair part of the look, I had pictures to help me visualise from the pervious practise. I also had a step by step written down. To make sure that in the continuity the hair worked out the same I made notes.
Overall i am pleased with how the hair turned out as it looks like a beautiful bridal hair, it also looks the same to my design. What I found difficult in creating this look was in every step I was doing I was thinking about continuity and how I would recreate it which made it very stressful. One thing that is going to make it very hard for me to re create this look are the baby hairs that are on the sides of her face and also the back of the head. Also a few pins are showing which means that when i recreate this look i have to make sure that the same amount of pins, in the same colour will be in the same place. To improve I would hide the pins better and also curl the hair with the exact same thickness as the rest as some of the curls are bigger and some are smaller which again will make it harder for me. However to help me i wrote down notes to help me such as how thick the parting is if it is above the ear or below, how many curls in each parting and also I will have photos to help me.

Make Up 

The make up part of the assessment was easier because in mind i knew it would be a little easier to recreate as from previous practise I had taken out any complicated bits such as bits of dry skin that would be hard to recreate. I am pleased with the outcome, as she looks battered. Being around Miss Havisham was uncomfortable for others as she was crazy therefore I am happy with the way the red eyeliner turned out. It makes you look at it and feel umcofortable. I also like the fact that underneath the eyes looks natural, the bags and the darkness looks like she hasn't slept not that it is exaggerated and drawn on. Another thing that i like is the shade of the foundation that i used. I mixed a bit of white and grey with M.A.C.'s face and body and it gave her skin a dull and illl look. However there are some steps that I could take to make the look better like making the under eyes even darker to make  her look even more battered. I would also use whit on the eyebrows and the hair to age her and also the wrinkles are faint so making them darker would pick up on the camera more. Overall I am pleased with how the look turned out. 

                                            Steps to maintain continuity for assessment

For the assessment to create the Miss Havisham looks I made plans to keep the continuity consistent.
First of all I took pictures of the looks and printed it out zoomed in to make sure I could see detail on the day of the assessment. Visuals will help me to see anything that needs to be changed. I then created a step by step guide again with pictures for anything technical such as creating dry skin or scars. I brought with me a sheet of all of the products used in order, which helped me to prevent wasting time and following a step by step guide. I also used a face chart to get an idea of the overall look. Whilst doing the look I wrote down notes of how big the strands of hair I used were and how high up the parting was wether it was above the ear or below it.

The steps I took are helpful however to improve I would make the face charts more detailed as they weren't very useful. I would also bring a step by step not just for the hair but also for the make up. Another thing that i would do to maintain continuity is take pictures of the eyes separate to the lips and cheek etc., to properly zoom in and have a look instead of leaning over to see details on the eyes.

Miss Havisham continuity

Miss Havisham continuity 

The continuity (on left) of the first look of Miss Havisham (on right) was extremely difficult main due to lack of notes that I had made, however because I had a lot of pictures in high quality it made it easier for me to copy from them, even though the continuity image is not the exact same as the actual image and would not be acceptable on film and tv i am still pleased as it was my first ever try of continuity. 

I had a list of all the make up that I had previously used which made it easy for me to find the products without wasting any time or using anything that was not used before. Prepping and priming the skin both times with the same products made the application of the products sit nicely making the base of the look pretty much the same. I was pleased with the similarities between the eyebrows as i changed the shape of my partners eyebrows therefore found it difficult to recreate twice, however they look similar. I am also happy with the hair as I chose a difficult hairstyle which was very messy, meaning that when I had to recreate it any strands that were hanging out before had to be out again. Although the hair does not look the exact same it is still similar and I learnt a lesson that just because it is easy to create once it does not make it easy to recreate it the second time. 

Evaluation

Overall I was happy with the turnout, however there are things that I could have done to improve. I wrote down which products I used however I did not write which product went on first and what part of the face was done first in steps which created a problem for the eyes. As I forgot to note that that I started of with the eyes let the colours dry and then powder and add on, I layered the products on top of each other which made the colour underneath the eyes change from the original colour I had created to a more of a yellow tone which looked even worse when i tried to fix it so I left it. From this I learnt that writing notes are crucial even if they seem really simple, they can be a lot of help. Another thing that looks completely different is the foundation. This is because my partner fake tanned before the continuity assessment which i did not realise until the end when i took a picture. As her skin was darker the second time the tone of the foundation had changed to a darker colour and as  I used a very sheer foundation it failed to cover the neck and the ears even though I did blend it down there. Next time before doing an assessment of continuity i will ask my partner not to fake tan or let me know if they do so therefore i can chose a different foundation to make sure they both match and on the day I will do another consultation sheet asking if they had fake tanned. 

From this assessment of continuity I learnt that the simplest notes can make the biggest difference, and that just because something is very easy to create it does not mean that it is easy to recreate, therefore practise is needed even on easy designs. Also I used the images that i took on the professional camera which was a big mistake as it makes the make up look less and changes the tones which is why I should have used the images that I took on my iPhone with flash to get a clear idea of how much make up i used which really shows on the dry skin on the lips as it did not look much i did not add much which made it look even less in the continuity image.

Left continuity image, right first image. 

Left continuity image, right first image

continuity image.  

Miss Havisham look 2 practise

Miss Havisham look 2 practise

For the second look I decided to go along with more of a battered look for Miss Havisham therefore i darkened the eyes and made her face look paler.

Step by step -

1- Moisturise and prime the skin
2- Apply a foundation 2 shades lighter than actual skin mixed in with a bit of grey
3-Apply a dark colour underneath the eyes and on the lids
4- Apply red eyeliner to the waterline
5-Powder the skin
6-Apply vaseline on the under eyes to make it look like tears
7- Apply white colour to the eyebrows to create ageing
8- Apply duo eyelash glue on top of the lip for a dry skin effect
9- Draw on wrinkles

List of products used

Kryolan Supra Colour Palette

M.A.C face and body C1

Illamasqua loose base powder

Illamasqua Skin Base foundation SB 01

Anastasia Beverly Hills Dip Brow- Blonde

Anastasia Beverly Hills Dip Brow- Brown

Vaseline

Duo lash glue in white

Supra Colour OA

M.A.C Pro long wear Paint Pot- Tailor grey

Naked 1 palette

Brushes

Real Techniques - Blusher brush

Real Techniques- Concealer brush

Zoeva - Face sculpt 110

Zoeva eye finish 229

M.A.C - 100

Real Techniques eye definition brush

Kryolan - Kabuki brush

Kryolan 9716

Overall I was pleased with the look as i was aiming for a very battered and tired look. I found that creating hollow dark under eyes was easy. The bit that I struggled with the most was creating the wrinkles as I find that It is my weakness. I also think that the eyebrows look very fake compared to the hair, as I did not want to add white to the hair which Is why for the actual assessment I decided to tone it down and add only a tiny bit of white on the eyebrows. The red in between the lips also looks fake and this is because of the tone of red that i chose, this can be fixed to look more natural with fake blood instead of a bright red colour. 

BURNS

To create burns we need to identify the difference between old and new burns which is colour. There are 3 different types of burns first degree, second degree and third degree burns which is very important for film and tv as you will need to make it look very real. To see missed parts that may be fixed may be found by looking at the person through the mirror and not directly at them.

Products used :

-Gelatine Powder mixed into a thick jelly
-Gellac
-Block Gellac
- Foundation palette
-Supra colour palette
-Illamasqua Translucent powder
-Fake puss from Kryolan
-Foundation brush
-Stippling brush
-Fake blood


To use the gellac put it in the microwave for 20 seconds and keep checking to see if its melted, for health and safety reasons let it cool down and check on the back of your hand before applying it to someones face.

Step by step

1- Put the gellac in microwave for 10 seconds and when its runny apply to skin
2- Dab the gelatine slowly and unevenly onto the skin and blend edges with warm baby bud.
3- Keep the block runny
4- Depending on what kind of burn you are going for such as first/second/third degree burn use powder on top
5- Colour in with a foundation and build up between powdering and using foundation
5- Colour in to make the burn look real

Evaluation - I had a lot of fun creating the burns although I found it hard to keep up with all the different methods of creating them which is why i stuck with just one method. The build up of the burns looked natural however the edges were very harsh and did not blend in with the skin which made it look like make up therefore to improve next time I will focus on blending the edges more.

Miss Havisham first Face Chart and practise

LOOK 1 PRACTISE Miss Havisham

Products used

Cape

Kryolan Supra colour 

Essense red lip liner

MAC lip mix in red

Mary Kay mascara

Duo eyelash glue in white
Foundation brush
Concealer brush
Lip Brush

Evaluation- I like how the dry skin turned out as I was going with the theme of decay which is portrayed through the dry skin and I found creating it easy. I also like how sore the eyes look which I created by using red eyeliner in the water line. However I struggled with the ageing of the skin as it looks very unnatural mainly due to the wrong choice of colour which is something I need to practise more on either on myself or a friend to improve. I wanted to create Miss Havisham looking decayed and rotten however when I finished I realised that I wanted more of a battered look therefore I created a new face chart and used some of the techniques which I used for this look.

Estelle Face Chart

This first look is to show the darkness of Estella and her at her oldest in the book when she tells Pip that she does not want to be with him. 

MODERN LOOK 

The products I used to create this look are :

Urban decay naked palette buck, naked, darkhourse, had baked

Bobbi brown - metallic longwear eyeshadow cream -  goldstone 

Anastasia beverlyhills dip bow- blonde 

Mac studio fix nw25

Rimmel - long lasting soft colour blush love pink 050

Nars- super orgasm

Brushes

Mac 224

Anastasia bevery hills 12 

Real technique expert face brush

Urban decay naked 

Kryolan 9362

Zoeeva 229-eyefinish

Real technique lip brush

For this look I focused more on the youthful side of Estella and the ideal Victorian make up which was minimal with pale skin, thin brow and rosy cheek and lip!


      PERIOD LOOK

The products I used to create this look are : studio fix nw25

Topshop lipstic - rio rio 

Anastasia beverly 

Nars super orgasm

Brushes

Mac 180

Bare minerals max coverage concealed brush

Real technique lip brush 

Victorian Hairstyle for Miss Havisham

Miss Havisham had bridal flowers in her hair which means that she was dressed up for a wedding. Bridal flowers means a bridal hairstyle hence why I decided to go with a traditional beautiful Victorian hairstyle.
My main inspiration for the hair that I created for Miss Havisham was ringlet curles that was so popular in the 19th century.

I was inspired by this hairstyle created by Bunny who is a Youtube beauty guru. I really liked the sides of the hairstyle where it was curled and pinned back with lose hair hanging out from the sides which would look good for Miss Havishams character as she is only half dressed. Miss Havisham was also in a lot of chaos which would have caused her hair to fall out and become messy, however I had to be careful with how I made it look messy because Victorian hairstyles would have been done very professionally especially bridal hair making it very crisp and tight, which meant that I couldn't have it frizzed all over the place I needed to show a base of a beautiful Victorian bridal hair.

For the hairstyle i started of with a ponytail as a base and then started to curl the hair with very thing tongs and pin it up. I carried on like this for the rest of the hair and added flowers on the sides in the end. I am happy with how the hairstyle turned out as it looks very innocent and bridal which shows how Miss Havisham was before she was wronged. Although some of the curls ended up to be messy, in my opinion it still worked with the whole concept since Miss Havisham was described to look 'battered'.

To improve I would make sure that the middle parting is very crisp and obvious as it was a feature used in the Victorian era. Also I would work on hiding the pins better underneath the hair as it looks very unprofessional, I would do this by pinning the hair underneath different strands of hair. Lastly to complete Miss Havisham I would stain the flowers and make them look dusty to fit it with her surroundings because It would be weird if she was surrounded by dust and decay but the flowers on her head were white and clean.

Products used :

-Cape
-Medium Curling tongs
-Hair Brush
-Thin comb
-Bobbi Pins
-Bridal Flowers
-Hair Spray

Step By Step

1. Brush the hair
2. Make a middle parting and section each side into 3 strands and clip away
3. Make a v shape parting going down the back of the head and create a ponytail
4. Part ponytail into 4 sections curl and pin around the ponytail
5. Part the rest of the hair evenly into 2 sections and curl and pin until all of the hair is curled and pinned
6. Curl the hair at the front away from the face into a big ball like shape and pin with the rest of the curls
7. Loosen up the hair for a messy look
8. Add flowers

Cuts, Bruises, Black eyes, Dry Skin

Before starting for health and safety reasons a client consultation sheet is a must to make sure that the products used on the face will not cause any allergies. Then the 3 step of cleanse moisturise and tone to make sure the application of the make up sits well.

Products used : 

-

-Cape

-Supra colour palette 

-Duo eyelash glue in white

-Kryolan foundation palette

-Kryolan Concealer palette 

-Ilamasqua translucent powder

-Foundation Brush 

-Concealer Brush

-Lip Brush

To create cuts and dry skin I used the Duo lash glue onto the skin and let it dry for 20 seconds and with my finger or the end of a disposable mascara wand I moved it to create a dry looking skin. 

To create cuts i filled in the holes of the dry skin I created with red eyeshadow.

Another way to make the skin look dry Is by applying a wet foundation onto the skin and applying a white or transulsent powder to it straight away which will make it look flakey and powdery. 

To create the perfect black eye mix the colours yellow, red and green to create brown hollow eyes. To make it look like a black eye add a bit of blue and blend it in.

Overall i was pleased with how the cuts turned out as they look realistic however when i filled them in i should have used fake blood instead of a red colour as that would make it look more real. I struggled with creating the cuts because i spent all my time creating on the dry skin and the bruising therefore next time time management is something that i will need to consider.

Historical -Victorian Hair practise

Historical -Victorian Hair practise


Victorian ringlet curles and middle parting. Middle parting was the traditional Victorian parting which was worn by most women. The curls were also very tight and small.


Products used :

-Thin barrel curling tongs
-Apron
-Hairspray
-Bobbi Pins
-Hair Clips
-Hair Brush
-Sectioning Brush




- Complete a client consultation sheet to find out the type of hair the client has and decide what heat the curling tongs should be on

- Brush the hair throughout getting rid of any knots

-With a comb section the hair into a crisp middle parting

- Make a bun with the remaining hair

- Get sections of hair from both sides and divide them into even parts 3/4

-With the hair curlers curl the hair away from the face and let go without brushing through it and hair spray

-Make sure the ends of the hair is tucked in properly to have every part of the hair curly


Overall I was pleased with the way the curls turned out as I am not very good at curling hair however i curled the hair in random sections rather than following a rule such as curling 2 inches of strands to make it look more even and victorian as this made the hair look more modern rather than victorian.

Historial Victorian Hair

Hair 

Having long curly hair was seen as Godly in the Victorian era which is why women rarely cut their hair. There was also use of false hair as long hair was the ideal for them. Since the use of make up was disgorged women focused on hair and and a lot of attention was given to creating the ideal hairstyles. The scalp had to be clean as it was a part of the hygiene and also the canvas of creating a good hairstyle and also dirt could stop the healthy growth of the hair. Hair was shampooed once a month and groomed properly. Hairstyles were adjusted for different shapes of the face. 'The Newport knot' was a popular hairstyle. Fringes were worn on the sides of the face or upon the forehead depending on the shape of the face.  

Hair accessories were very much in fashion such as combs, jewels, feathers, chains, diadems, flowers, pearls. Topknots were becoming more popular and hairstyles including them were in fashion.  For the evening wear women used more jewels and detail in their hair, alongside with different materials such as ribbons and for daytime wear the hair was more toned down with different curls, but less jewels. 

The parting of the hair was also played an important part to the hair as it varied depending on the shape of the face and also age of the person. Different types of parting included the hair fully scraped back out of the face, a V parting with hair coming down in a V shape from both sides. For children the hair could be parted from the side and the coiffure, 'the braid could be let down and allowed to hang free from the crown with a ribbon bow at the end.'

Hair also showed status which is why the hairstyle of servants were different to the hairstyles of wealth ladies. Although the same shape and idea that the wealthier women had was followed by servants it was not done carefully and neatly which suggested social status. 

'As Leonardo da Vinci once said, “Hair is essential to a face as a frame is to a picture.”  Hairstyles have evolved from a display of power and wealth to an expression of self and individuality.  Hair has been used as a medium to make political statements, rebel against social norms, and to tell one’s story.  Through the years hair has been braided, coloured, teased, and adorned to reflect not only the fashions of the day, but also the values of the era.'

Queen Victoria was a fashion icon, in the earlier days her hairstyle consisted of a plain plaits attached to the top of the head to create loops. The hairstyles started of being very neat and perfected but then evolved to more of a natural look with buns with curled hair on the sides of the head. 

Around 1837, the coiffures could be worn low or raised up and the hair in front could be worn in bands or ringlets falling on each side of the face. A lot of women adapted the two large twists which are called ' à la Clothilde' which fell down halfway on the cheeks and then carried up towards the top of the coiffure.  

À la Chinoise, front hair in bands with ringlet

By the 1850s women wore hairstyles incorporating hairpieces  purchased from the new department stores.  Towards the end of the 19th century, the Marcell Wave invented by Marcel Grateau’s “curling iron,” became a popular hairstyle which enabled to create a more natural looking wave as opposed to a curl. Victorians associated hair with life and love, therefore, it was traditional for women to incorporate lockets of hair into mourning  jewellery after the passing of a loved one.

By 1856 there was various of new designs for coiffures which could have flowers, feathers pearls. By 1862 the new style for hair

. 

The Newport knot.

'http://www.vintagevictorian.com/images/del94dec-p683-figBb.jpg'

'http://www.vintagevictorian.com/images/del94dec-p683hair-a.jpg'

 Richard Corson (1965). Fashions In Hair The First Five Thousand Years.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdnIY5aXSGA

Hairstyles which the women wore in the Victorian era. The hairstyles in the early 1800's were mostly middle parted and simple and as time went on the hairstyles became more detailed and fancy as fashion developed. Some of the hairstyles included buns, plaits, frizzing, curling, padding, pin curls, french twists etc. 
There was also a massive use of accessories in the hair such as ribbons, flowers, pearls, headbands. 

Technical File

Technical File

List of products/materials used throughout unit

Annotated Face Charts with list of products used – reflection on appropriateness

Photographs of trials in studio (test shots), with evidence of working on 3 different models

ALL Technical Notes including:

Consultation notes used in studio

Theatrical ageing/Creping of the skin

Historical Victorian hair

Cuts, scratches, bruises and the perfect black eye

Victorian hair style - Estelle and Miss Havisham

Practice look of Miss Havisham both hair and make up technical classes

Burns, how to recreate, with different products

Creating Miss Havisham, continuity image.

Creating Estelle image

Creating light scaring, using molds, how to attach to the skin, how to colour

Dark eyes and lips.

Contemporary Victorian Hairstyles, Inspired by American Horror

Consultation notes

Consultation notes

Consultation notes are extremely important not only because of health and safety but also to make sure that the application of the make up and the products used are a right match for sometimes skin/hair. Consultation notes will help you understand different skin/hair types and what products work best with them. Also it will prevent any problems such as allergies as you will find out before hand and not put them on the clients skin.

From Amy Kennets consultation notes i found out that her skin is extremely sensitive therefore I practised latex on her hand instead of her face as she is prone to rashes. I also found out that her skin is dry which is why i used more greasy products instead of powdery. 

From Harriets consultation notes I found that her hair is very thick and strong therefore I used a higher setting on the curlers to achieve the curls that I wanted however with heat protect as it had been highlighted before to prevent damage. As for her skin, it is very dry therefore I found a very good primer and also brought along with me a rich moisturiser to prevent any dry patches and achieve a glowy natural look. 

From Aine's consultation notes I found that her skin is oily, therefore I stuck to using more powdery products so that the images do not look too greasy with flash.